Port Renfrew, British Columbia: Fall Camping, Old Growth Forests and Beautiful Beaches

Last fall we took a Vancouver Island camping trip north of Sooke to Port Renfrew. We started out in Victoria and traveled to Sooke along Highway 14. We have spent lots of time in Sooke with family and were excited to explore beyond to the Port Renfrew area, especially when most campers have packed away their gear for the season.

From Sooke our first stop was French Beach Provincial Park (about 20 kilometres from Sooke). It was late September, so no reservations were required. It was fairly quiet on the weekdays, but it filled up on the weekend. We definitely appreciated the extra blankets on our bed at night and extra layers around the fire. Some days we needed toques and gloves for beach walks and other days we were wearing shorts. Take home message – be prepared for all weather!!

After a few days at French Beach, we drove to Port Renfrew, another 50 kilometres along the same highway. The road was bumpy in spots with lots of corners to slow down for, but fully paved. We recommend stopping at the charming logging community of Jordan River which is well known for surfing. There is ocean-front camping (first come, first served) at Jordan River Regional Park with a picnic area, which is a great place to watch the surfers. Before leaving we stopped for coffee, snacks and wifi at the Cold Shoulder Cafe.

Between Jordan River and Port Renfrew there are many beaches to explore (all along the 47 kilometre Juan de Fuca Marine Trail); some of our favourite beaches are China Beach, Mystic Beach and Sombrio Beach. All are absolutely beautiful, and it is difficult to recommend just one!

We arrived at our destination for the next few nights, Port Renfrew. It is well known for being the trailhead for the Juan de Fuca Trail and the West Coast Trail, as well as, the beautiful, natural Botanical Beach. Check out Things To Do in Port Renfrew.

While in the Port Renfrew area, we stayed at Pacheedaht Campground. They have numerous ocean-front campsites and many set back from the water in the wooded area.

Over the next few days, we explored. First on our list was Botanical Beach, known for being one of the richest tidal pools on the west coast. We made sure that we checked the tide charts for the area before we went. We arrived an hour before low tide (it was 1.6 metres), which was good for beachcombing. We took the Botanical Beach Loop Trail which circles past Botanical Beach, as well as, Botany Bay. This 2.9 kilometre trail takes you from the parking lot down to the beach and follows along above the beach. The loop takes about 40 minutes, but was much longer since we stopped at all the beaches.

Next on the list was Avatar Grove. We picked up a Port Renfrew visitors guide which helped send us off in the right direction. It was a 15–20 minute drive and then both an upper and lower trail; both seemed to take about 20-30 minutes depending on how many photos you stop to take. The upper trail is an old creek bed with lots of fallen trees, rustic stairs and surrounded by old growth Douglas Firs and Red Cedars. At the end of the trail is the large Red Cedar known as Canada’s gnarliest tree with a burl 10 feet in diameter. Both trails are awe inspiring!

A little further up the road is a hike to the famous “Big Lonely Doug”, Canada’s second largest Douglas Fir and estimated to be about 1,000 years old! It has become a symbol for protecting old-growth forests. Much has been written about this mammoth tree; I enjoyed reading the history written by the Walrus; if you want to learn more, just do a quick google search. We have a second trip planned back to the area next spring, so we wanted to save that hike for our next visit.

Lastly, dinner at the local pub was a must to finish off our camping trip. The waterfront Renfrew Pub located on the pier at Snuggery Cove had a very comfortable friendly atmosphere with a mix of locals and tourists. We tried the fish and chips and pulled-pork tacos and then took a walk out on the pier, which was a nice way to end our visit to memorable Port Renfrew.

For places to camp in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

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“Camping with Teenagers: Is there WIFI?”

Ah yes, the first question my teenage sons ask when we suggest or venture to a new campground, “Is there WIFI?”

Gone are the days when our sons would hop in the car without questioning where we were camping and what there was to do there.

When our children were young, camping was fairly simple. We ensured the car was packed with lots of snacks and activities to combat boredom and fighting. We carefully chose campgrounds that had all the amenities for young children such as beaches and playgrounds. Overall, everyone was happy and for the most part, easily entertained. Camping with teenagers, can be much more challenging.

It can be tough to pull teenagers away from WIFI, friends and video games.

So how do we do it?

1. Consultation

Prior to the camping season, we research different campgrounds and put together a list of previous sites we have stayed. As a family, we decide which campsites to book.

2. Travel with family friends

Gone are the days when our sons would play at the beach or playground with anyone who happened to be there. Our teenagers are much happier when camping with friends. Although we still plan one or two trips a year with just our family, we tend to book the rest with families whose children are similar ages.

3. Location and activities are key

All of our camping friends with teenagers agree, camping for a week with a main focus on beachcombing and sand castles, does not cut it anymore. The campgrounds we choose have a variety of different activities such as paddle boarding, canoeing, basketball hoops and fishing holes. Although we do stay at some campgrounds year after year, we always find new ones to explore for a brand new experience.

4. Independence and downtime

For years, I was guilty of scheduling our holiday to make sure we made use of every minute of our trip. When they were young, everyone just went along with my plan however that does not work anymore. Now, I usually plan a main activity in the mid-morning (not too early!) such as a hike or kayak on the lake, then everyone has downtime to relax, read a book, take a nap or take the paddle board down to the water.

By the end of each camping trip, the teenagers have survived without WIFI and they tuck away their memories from another trip.

At the end of last camping season, I thought to myself how camping with teenagers has its challenges yet has many more benefits. They assist with setting up the trailer and site, are very independent (I don’t have to accompany them on every bike ride or trip down to the lake) and offer great campfire discussions.

For places to camp in British Columbia check out the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #campinbc

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, BC is a Great Place to Visit in the Off-Season

One of the best parts of living in British Columbia is being close to both the mountains and the sea. BC has a lot of mountain-based national parks, but it also is blessed with a spectacular coastline – and none more spectacular than what you find in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve on Vancouver Island.

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is made up of three units spread along the west coast of Vancouver Island. Long Beach, the unit furthest north is the most accessible and arguably the best known. It is named after the 16-kilometre long stretch of sand lining Wickaninnish Bay and offers abundant opportunities for beach-combing, storm-watching, and surfing. Further south, the Broken Group Islands section is made up of over 100 small islands and is a dream destination for beginner and advanced kayakers alike. Further south still, the West Coast Trail is a challenging 75-kilometre backpacking route not to be taken lightly.

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is a popular summertime destination, but it should not be overlooked for an “off-season” getaway. In the winter, the Pacific Ocean is whipped in to a frenzy and the storm watching is second to none. No matter which season you plan your visit, you will find many things to see and do while you are there.

What to do

Highlights in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve include:

• Beachcombing: One of the best things to do in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is beachcombing. Pack a picnic lunch and spend the day wandering the shores of Long Beach. Bring your dog, too. Long Beach is one of the only dog-friendly protected areas in Canada, however dogs must be on-leash at all times.
• Kayaking: With some advanced planning, kayaking the Broken Group is an adventure you will never forget. The Broken Group is rich in wildlife, including sea lions, whales, and bears. It is also home to unique coastal features including sea arches and sea caves.

• K^wisitis Visitor Centre: Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is on the traditional lands of the Nuu-chah-nulth people. At the K^wisitis Visitor Centre you can take in the spectacular views from the deck before heading inside to learn about the area through a variety of exhibits. After your time at the Visitor Centre, head out for a self-guided walk on the Nuu-chah-nulth Trail.

• Surfing: Numerous licensed operators work in Pacific Rim and without too much trouble you should be able to find someone who can hook you up with rentals and lessons. Don’t forget a wetsuit, the water is cold even on the warmest summer day.

• Storm Watching: Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is not only a summertime destination. In fact, from November to March the park comes into its own as a winter storm watching destination and is known worldwide for its huge waves.

In the Area

Tofino and Ucluelet have capitalized on their coastal location and proximity to Pacific Rim National Park and both offer a variety of activities and attractions. In Ucluelet, check out the Wild Pacific Trail for an easy coastal walk. My favourite section of the trail is the 2.5 kilometre Lighthouse Loop that takes you out to the 102-year old Amphitrite Lighthouse. In Tofino, consider joining a tour or hiring a charter and heading to Hot Springs Cove, a series of natural hot pools accessible only by boat or float plane.

Where to Stay

Camping in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve can be a bit tricky as there is only one campground within the Long Beach unit. The Green Point Campground offers 94 drive-in sites and an additional 20 walk-in sites. During the summer season, advanced reservations are a must if you want to stay in the park itself. A handful of private campgrounds are available in both Tofino and Ucluelet, but just like in the National Park, make a reservation ahead of time if you are travelling during the busy summer season.

Pacific Rim National Park Reserve offers a huge range of opportunities for exploration. From highly accessible and popular options in the Long Beach Unit to the extreme backcountry of the West Coast Trail, you are guaranteed to find something to suit whatever your heart desires. Keep in mind this park’s popularity when planning your trip. It can sometimes be a challenge to find accommodation on busy summer weekends and you will be greatly rewarded if you book your trip in advance. Don’t worry, though, with 16 kilometres of sandy beaches in the Long Beach Unit, you are sure to find a place that feels as though it is meant just for you.

If this area interests you, check out our drive:
From Coast to Coast on Vancouver Island: Vancouver to Tofino

For more campgrounds in and around British Columbia check out the Camping Map at Camping & RVing BC.

Check out more blogs in the National Parks & Historic Sites series:

A Primer to Canada’s National Parks in BC.
Explore Fort Langley & Gulf of Georgia Cannery Historic Sites and Check Out Some of BC’s Fascinating History
BC’s Gulf Islands National Park Reserve Offers Rich Opportunities for Exploring
BC’s National Historic Sites Offer a Glimpse into the Past – Here are 3 to Explore
Kootenay National Park, BC Offers Great Vistas, Hiking & History
Visit Mount Revelstoke National Park in August for its Stunning Vistas & Wildflowers
Yoho National Park, BC – A Jewel in the Canadian Rockies
Glacier National Park: A Special BC Destination
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve – A Great Place to Visit in the Off Season

Share your BC camping and travel photos using hashtag #campinbc #explorebc

There’s always somewhere to #CampinBC

Published: August 17th, 2017