A BC Circle Tour From Vancouver Island to Northern BC and Back

Exploring BC has become much more leisurely since my husband and I purchased an RV.   Come along for the ride and see BC from our perspective as we tootle around our home province. 

I find that driving a large RV about four hours behind the wheel is comfortable.  It also provides a framework for where to stop and stay.  If traveling with friends, it leaves more time to relax and socialize at the end of the day. 

As I have family and friends in the Prince George and Burns Lake area of Northern BC my husband and I thought it would be fun to circumnavigate BC, driving up through the centre of the province. Then we would head west to Prince Rupert and south via BC Ferries from Prince Rupert to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and back to our home in Victoria. This loop is approximately 2,500 km (1,550 mi) so leave lots of time to explore BC and plan accordingly.

We began our BC loop with a ferry ride from Vancouver Island’s Swartz Bay to Tsawwassen Terminal on Vancouver’s lower mainland, followed by a short drive east to Hope staying at Coquihalla Campground.  We spent a couple of nights visiting friends in the area and exploring Hope which has some wonderful bike trails.  There was even a bike park right outside our campground.  Great for kids!  Whether taking a walk or ride around town be sure to get a selfie with the Rambo statue as the movie was filmed here.

We then headed north through the stunning Fraser Canyon that follows the impressive Fraser River to Lytton and on to Ashcroft – a little slice of heaven and a must for the train enthusiast.  We camped at a small full-service campground called Legacy Park right on the Thompson-Okanagan River.  Train tracks ran on either side.  It was quite the sight to see them rumbling so close.  Ashcroft is full of train lore.  You can visit the local museum, view the many tile mosaics dispersed across numerous buildings and if you also happen to love vintage cars there are many charming old vehicles scattered throughout town.

We love BC’s Provincial Parks, so we made sure to include a couple in our journey.  First up, Lac La Hache in Cariboo Country, home to rolling hills, ranches and horseback riding. We chose a site with a lake view to relax and take in nature before connecting with friends and relatives further north in northern BC’s ‘capital’ of Prince George. There is a lot to see and do here. One of the fascinating places is The Exploration Place Science Centre, home to 70 million year old fossils and dinosaurs with fun things for kids to participate in.

Yellowhead Hwy 16 traverses an area known as the Lake District with great views and abundant fishing. Burns Lake, where we stopped to visit with more friends, is a lovely scenic lake and the weather was particularly hot. After our visit we headed for Smithers and Tyee Lake Provincial Park.  It was refreshing to stay at one of the few provincial parks in BC with 30amp electrical power.  What a relief to be able to run our air conditioning unit to cool off! 

If you get a chance along the way, check out New Hazelton.  It’s lovely with its picturesque mountain backdrop and intriguing First Nations heritage.

Hwy 16 took us through Terrace and on to the scenic ocean route westward to Prince Rupert.  Stop in at the old fish cannery (as we did) in Port Edward, now a museum, or feast on fresh seafood at one of the local pubs or restaurants but whatever you do, bring your raincoat!  You’ll need it as Prince Rupert gets an average of 219 days of rainfall a year. 

From Prince Rupert we boarded the ferry over to Port Hardy on Vancouver Island and camped in Port McNeill at Cedar Park which was new to us.  After disembarking the ferry at midnight, the short 30-minute drive from Port Hardy to Port McNeill was somewhat stressful.  The ferry ride itself is 16 hours and stunningly scenic but once on the Island the highway was pitch black.  Be forewarned, there are no lights in this remote part of northern Vancouver Island.  Once we turned off the highway towards our campground the road was gravel and rough in parts and although we had to set up in the dark it was totally worth it.  We awoke the next morning to sunny skies and an incredible ocean view!

For campgrounds and RV parks in British Columbia go to Camping and RV in British Columbia

Interested in RV tours and trips throughout BC go to Trips & Drives

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #CampInBC, #ExploreBC

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Explore Spirit Loop on Vancouver Island

It conjures some imagery, doesn’t it?  A path steeped in the history of coastal first nation peoples.  Join me as I tour yet another magical area of my beloved BC. 

Vancouver Island’s Pacific Marine Circle Route or Spirit Loop as it is now called parallels part of the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island but is more attainable for the average person not into extreme hikes.  It can also be done by car or in this case RV in a day even, although my husband and I took nearly two weeks to complete it.  After all, it’s not only island time but recreational vehicle time, right? 

There is no shortage of things to see and do along the way as well as places to stop, camp and explore. 

Heading out from our home in Victoria we stopped in at the local Sheringham Distillery in Sooke. After all, you need provisions.  If you go at the right time of year you can take in the Sooke Fine Art Show where they transform the local sports arena into a spectacular art gallery showcasing amazingly talented local artists.

Then we enjoyed a light lunch at the popular Shirley Delicious Café in Shirley, BC before arriving at our first campsite at French Beach Provincial Park.

Alternatively, if you don’t mind getting cozy with your neighbours, the Capital Regional District (CRD) hosts a beachside campground at Jordon River where you can literally park your tires in the sand and admire the open ocean view.

We also stayed at Juan de Fuca Provincial Park from which you can walk to China Beach.  It’s one of those rustic west coast campgrounds where we’ve never been able to stay without it raining.  And by rain, I mean downpour that has my husband frantically digging minor trenches to divert the water from our outdoor living space. 

If you are into hiking, there are numerous options along the way.  One of which is Sombrio Beach (also located in Juan de Fuca Provincial Park).  They have built a beautiful big parking lot where you can leave your vehicle while you get out into nature. 

Along the way we stopped off for lunch at a pub in Port Renfrew – Wild Renfrew before exploring the possibility of staying at Pacheedaht Campground, yet another magnificent spot for oceanside camping.

Ultimately, we decided to stay a few days at Lakeview Park on Lake Cowichan, a lovely municipal campground right on the lake within walking distance to the township of Lake Cowichan where we wandered the shops and took in happy hour at one of the restaurants which is more our speed.

Our last stop was Stoltz Pool Provincial Park on Cowichan River where floating down the river on an inner tube is a fun pastime during the warmer months.  It was a bit early in the season to don a bathing suit, but we enjoyed our stay very much all the same.

There is so much to see and do on Vancouver Island it never gets old, whether we are exploring somewhere new or revisiting old haunts.  Speaking of old haunts, I’ll share some of our favorites in a future blog. 

For campgrounds and RV parks in British Columbia go to Camping and RV in British Columbia

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #CampInBC, #ExploreBC

It’s always a great day to #CampinBC

Explore British Columbia’s Scenic West Kootenays

Mountains, lakes and old-growth forests make up the West Kootenays, a scenic and outdoorsy area of the Kootenays region in southeastern BC. Bordering Washington, Idaho and the edge of Montana, it’s nestled between the Okanagan and the East Kootenays, with the Purcell Mountain range as a divider. The Selkirk and Monashee mountains are also in the West Kootenays and the ski town of Revelstoke in the Columbia-Shuswap region and the Trans-Canada Highway are to its north.

There are no major urban centres here. Rather, you’ll find unique alpine culture and artistic and eclectic communities. Major highways that run through the West Kootenays are Hwy 3 in the south (zigzags east-west through Creston, Castlegar and Grand Forks), highways 3A (north and east of Hwy 3) and 3B, which links the towns of Rossland and Trail. Highways 6, 23 and 31 run north-south in the central-northern area of the West Kootenays, with Hwy 23 hugging the east side of the long and thin Upper Arrow Lake.

Situated where the Columbia and Kootenay rivers meet, Castlegar is the crossroads of the West Kootenays and a great spot for trout and kokanee fishing. There are countless hiking and biking trails to try in spring, summer and fall when you can experience mountain meadows in bloom and autumnal changes. Nearby parks include Millennium Park, with its swimming ponds and dog park, and Zuckerberg Island Heritage Park, located in the middle of the Columbia River and accessible by a pedestrian bridge. Castlegar has local markets and hosts various events throughout the year, including music festivals and cultural celebrations. A camping option is Castlegar RV Park and Campground.

Thirty minutes southwest is the picturesque ski town of Rossland and Red Mountain, a prime spot for winter adventures and summer exploring. Rossland Lions is the community campground and Nancy Greene Provincial Park (southwest of Castlegar and north of Rossland) has a refreshing sub-alpine lake and is great for an overnight stay or day visit.

East of Rossland is Trail (check out Trail Creek Falls, Centennial Trail and the sandy beach at Gyro Park) and Beaver Creek Provincial Park along the Columbia River. The 18-hole Birchbank Golf Club boasts mountain and river views and a long golf season, averaging over 210 days annually, and Trail Museum and Archives has three galleries and free admission.

Northeast of Castlegar is Nelson, amidst the Selkirk Mountains, and Kokanee Creek Provincial Park with its four campgrounds, boat launch area and beautiful sandy beaches. Nelson City Campground is walkable to the town’s sights, numerous heritage buildings and amenities. While in Nelson chill out at Rotary Lakeside Park or hike to Pulpit Rock across Kootenay Lake, where stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking are popular. The multi-use Great Northern Rail Trail (49 km) near the town is part of the TransCanada Trail system. An amazing fact about this area is that it’s home to the last remaining inland temperate rainforest on earth, with old-growth western white pine, Douglas-fir, lodgepole pine, western red cedar, western hemlock, subalpine fir and Engelmann spruce.

Communities close to and along Kootenay Lake include Creston to the south, known for its agriculture and wineries, and Kaslo at the more northern (west side) end of the lake. This village is often called the “Little Switzerland of Canada”. While in Kaslo check out the SS Moyie Sternwheeler National Historic Site, the vessel worked on Kootenay Lake from 1889 until 1957 and is the oldest of its kind in the world. North of Kaslo is Kootenay Lake Provincial Park (Davis Creek and Lost Ledge campgrounds) and, near Kaslo, is Goat Range Provincial Park, which protects the natural spawning site of the Gerrard rainbow trout, the largest of its kind. Ainsworth Hot Springs on the west shore of Kootenay Lake is a must-visit and just 15-minutes between Balfour or Kaslo on Hwy 31. Close by is Cody Caves Provincial Park where you can book a tour of its magnificent caves system.

Granby Provincial Park (southwest of the locality of Needles/Hwy 6) is one of the least-explored wilderness areas in southern BC. Close to the Washington border on Christina Lake is Gladstone Provincial Park, which has lakeside camping and recreational activities.

Upper Arrow and Lower Arrow Lakes are a widening of the Columbia River and lie between the imposing Selkirk Mountains on the east and the Monashee Mountains on the west. Valhalla Provincial Park, in the Selkirk range, was created to protect the diverse topography, alpine lakes and unique vegetation of the area.

A neat experience in the northern part of the West Kootenays is the vehicular/passenger ferry across the top end of Upper Arrow Lake, which connects Galena to Shelter Bay, on the west side. (There is also a similar ferry that connects Balfour to Kootenay Bay across Kootenay Lake.)  When near Galena it’s worth a trip down Hwy 23 and inland to Halfway Hot Springs. There are over 20 campsites here, and about half of them are vehicle accessible though large RVs are not recommended. Forty-five minutes south is the community owned Nakusp Hot Springs, with its two spring-fed pools. Temperatures are regulated for winter and summer, with one pool kept warmer than the other. Hot Springs Campground is also located here. For more information on the area read the articles on campgrounds around Nakusp and Arrow Lake.

Golf courses in the West Kootenays include Redstone Resort in Rossland, Birchbank in Genelle, Champions Lake in Fruitvale, Castlegar Golf Club, the Salmo District Golf Club, Valley View in Winlaw and Granite Point in Nelson. Northeast of here on Kootenay Lake are Balfour Golf Course and Kokanee Springs in Crawford Bay, and the par-9 Riondel Golf Club on the east side of the lake.

For campgrounds and RV parks in British Columbia go to Camping and RV in British Columbia

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #CampInBC, #ExploreBC

It’s always a great day to #CampinBC

Campsite Criteria to Consider for the RVer

My husband and I are very particular about where we camp.  Realtors will tell you location, location, location is the most important when it comes to selecting a home or in this case a campsite.  After all, we want the best experience possible.  Typically, we favour dry camping as we find it the most relaxing and these campsites are often in truly spectacular environments, but we are not above the creature comforts of a campground with partial or full amenities. 

Whenever we visit a new campground, after settling in we take a walk around making notes on the various sites for reference should we return.  We have our favourite spaces at places we frequent and if those aren’t available, we simply don’t go or choose another date when they are available.  That’s the bonus of being flexible. 

Here are our campsite criteria or how we define location, location, location.  However, before we even start it’s worth mentioning that a good web presence for any campground with the ability to book directly online is a real bonus.  It makes travel planning so much easier whether it’s a long trip or a short stay.  And websites that have good photos of the campsites as well as the campground can make or break it when we’re deciding where to book.

Private vs Public

Our favourite campgrounds tend to be public by which we mean those located on Federal, Provincial or Municipal lands.  They are frequently set in stunning natural surroundings in more remote places which ticks our boxes of privacy, outdoor living space and a chance to immerse in nature.  Some of our favourites are Goldstream Park | BC Parks, French Beach Park | BC Parks and Bamberton Provincial Park | BC Parks.  Goldstream is so convenient as it’s just 30 minutes from our home on Vancouver Island, but the tranquil temperate rainforest setting makes one feel miles away from everything.  French Beach offers nature and the ocean so close you can hear the surf from your campsite.  And Bamberton is small, rustic and stunning for its mountain meets the sea setting. 

Although we prefer public campgrounds when the private ones get it right it’s the best of all worlds like three of our favourite local resorts:  Park Sands Beach Resort in Parksville, Pedder Bay RV Resort & Marina in Victoria and Living Forest Oceanside Campground + RV Park in Nanaimo.  They are all on the ocean with full hook-ups, a picnic table, sun, shade and ample room to enjoy.  Pedder Bay and Living Forest also boast large hedges between sites.  It’s a little piece of paradise. 

Private campsites can also have various amenities especially for those traveling with kids or pets. Features like a pool, play area for children and laundry facilities for those longer journeys, even camping supplies, stores or restaurants.  And of course, there is the convenience of full hook-ups making living easy. 

The Campsite

We have taken time and paid special attention to ensure we are equipped with excellent off-grid solar and tank capacity so for us back-country or dry camping isn’t an issue, but we do have some specific requirements to be comfortable.  We need a campsite with ample sun to take full advantage of our solar.  However, we aren’t sun worshipers, so we also like shade.  A balance of both is ideal.  No solar?  You can always run your generator, but we try to do so as little as possible for ourselves and out of respect for fellow campers.  We find the noise a bit much especially in a peaceful forest or oceanside setting.  We like our privacy too, away from other campers if possible, at least visually, so we look for sites with bushes or plantings, hedges, a fence or privacy screen of some sort.  As most campgrounds have a circular or grid design, we find the outer circle or row to be the best. 

Campground Amenities

We will take electrical at every opportunity followed by water and finally sewer hook-up.  Some public sites have electrical which is great especially when it is particularly hot in summer or chilly in the shoulder season.  When hot it’s a relief to be able to run the AC and if it’s cool our small space heater is perfect for taking the edge off.  It’s also great to have a picnic table or even just room to set up our portable table especially since we prefer to cook outside keeping our RV clear of cooking odours. 

Lastly, know the reservation dates at your preferred campgrounds, book early and select weekdays rather than weekends if your schedule allows.  It’s a quieter time and you are more likely to be able to secure your desired site. 

For campgrounds and RV parks in British Columbia go to Camping and RV in British Columbia

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #CampInBC, #ExploreBC

It’s always a great day to #CampinBC

5 Holiday Gifts for the Camping Family

Each year I write a blog about holiday gifts for the camper and traveler.  This year I am basing my blog on you – the camping family.  Don’t worry, these items can still be used by the campers without kids.

Personal Washing Machine for the Campsite

My first item is a washing machine.  Yes, a washing machine.  If you are camping for a week or two, this is better than sliced bread.  I think someone was spinning their salad one day and said let’s make it bigger and wash the unmentionables or the kids’ clothes.  I wouldn’t try washing jeans, but one pair of shorts or a T-shirt at a time might work.  You can just sit it on the seat of the picnic table and keep the kids busy by cranking their laundry clean.  Make it fun by letting them crank once for each year they are or whatever you come up with.   Once it’s spun clean, rinse and then remove the water and spin it again, shake it out and hang on your clothes line, this will allow you to pack less for the family – a real bonus.

Igloo Trailmate Journey 70 qt Cooler, Carbonite

I think the cooler companies are toying with us.  Each year they come out with one that I think is the ultimate and then they do it again.  I like this one, but I think the coolers should come with pneumatic wheels and then they would truly be all-terrain wheels, but this IGLOO brand Trailmate boasts the ability to roll through sand, stones and more.  The price of coolers is also rising, so they all need to up their game if they want to stay in business. Check out walmart.ca for the cooler.

Hats, Hats, Hats

There is always a need for a hat.  No one can deny that, especially when camping.  We tend to be a little more stationary, so covering the head and neck is paramount.  Getting kids to wear hats is a game all in its own.  I have bought more hat types than most people do in a lifetime.  I have a toque (beanie) great for sleeping on cooler nights.  A baseball cap for those sunny walks, a big floppy hat for laying on the floatie and a large, brimmed straw hat for everything in between.  What should we look for in a hat?  A larger hat should have a pull cord to tighten, especially if it’s windy and be thick enough to block the sun and heat but remember straw hats do not have the ability to hold out much rain.  And make sure the brim of the hat keeps the sun off your ears – they can quickly get burned. There are also mosquito repellent hats.

Outbound Drinking Water Jug Hand Pump

What is the one thing common to all camping families?  Getting the children to drink water.  This has got to be one of my favorite items I own.  I take my 20-litre bottle in to the store to fill up to bring camping every trip.  Once at the campsite, I just sit it on my crate that I have emptied out – it’s at the perfect height for everyone.  I wrap a towel on it and use a clothes peg to keep it covered and out of the sun – it helps keep it cooler too.

Therm-a-Rest Compressible Pillow Cinch

I will admit it – I am a pillow snob.  To me, a good night’s sleep starts with a pillow.  I always hated bringing my home pillow camping, so I looked into options.  I have bought a few different ones over the years, and there was always something wrong – too hard, too fluffy, too flat but this was most appealing as it is so versatile for camping, road trips, air travel and anywhere else you want better rest.  If its too flat – cinch it a bit, want it harder – cinch it more.  Also, the best thing is for air travel, it compacts down to fit in my carry-on tote, and I hook a lanyard on it – no more dropped pillows on the plane because I hang it on my seat back. These pillows are available at cabelas.ca

I hope this gives you some inspiration for items for the camper in your life.

For campgrounds in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #campinbc

It’s always a great day to #campinbc.

Camping at Mabel Lake Provincial Park in British Columbia’s North Okanagan

This fall we went back to Mabel Lake Provincial Park for the first time in years, and it was even better than last time!

We love the quiet, peacefulness of Mabel Lake. It has an especially calm feeling in the fall as the cooler weather sets in. We booked ahead through the BC Parks Reservation System as it was a long weekend, a good plan since it was full.

To get to Mabel Lake Provincial Park, take Hwy 6 east from Vernon to Lumby then head north onto Mabel Lake Road for 36 kilometres. The last 1 kilometre is gravel, but well-maintained.

Mabel Lake is about 30 kilometres long and attracts the fishermen in the family. Many were fishing in small boats, belly boats and from the shore. Being that my husband will take any opportunity to fish, it worked great for me as it gave me lots of time to enjoy my book while he was out fishing for our supper. Apparently, the lake has many varieties and some big fish in deep water including Rainbow and Lake Trout and Chinook and Kokanee Salmon.  Don’t forget to buy your Freshwater fishing licence before you arrive, as there is no cell service in the campsite.

The campground has 114 sites, fresh drinking water, wood for a fee (outside of the fire ban periods), a big sandy beach, boat launch, lots of trails and a sani-dump. There is also a privately- run general store which had shut down for the season, but looks like they have basic supplies plus boat rentals. This campsite is great for kids, riding bikes, playing in the wide-open grassy fields and on the playground.

Uniquely laid out, the campsite has three loops: Trinity, Monashee and Taylor Creek. The Taylor Creek loop is set back slightly from the lake in the forest.  We camped in the Trinity Loop, but the Monashee loop looked equally as nice, both bordering and close to the lake. We were so lucky to snag a waterfront site with easy access for fishing and a great view.

This dog-friendly campsite has a big sandy dog beach and trails which meander through the campground. There is also easy access to the Taylor Creek trail which winds alongside the creek. 

We saw lots of interesting mushrooms along the Taylor Creek Trail. Friends we were with had taken a mushroom identification course and pointed out some Lobster mushrooms and Scarlet Waxy Cap mushrooms.

Throughout our stay, I kept asking “Who was Mabel?”. Being that we did not have cell-service, I had to look it up when we returned home. The park website shared that the lake was named after Mabel Charles, daughter of a Hudson’s Bay Company manager during the late nineteenth century.

Whilst there we decided to do a road trip on one of the days; with water and snacks, we headed north on the Mabel Lake Road. About 10 minutes down the road (6.5 kilometres), we arrived at the Cascade Falls Trail. It was well-marked and located on the east side of the road. There is a small parking area for a few cars; otherwise, people just parked on the side of the road.  The trail leading to the falls is short but could be difficult for some, as it requires climbing over roots and the path gets quite narrow and rocky at times. We found we had to watch our step in a few spots but didn’t find it too difficult. The falls were well worth the short hike. Apparently, they are even more spectacular in May/June with the spring runoff and during the hot summer days that bring a cool breeze.

A little further down the road, watch for a cedar tree covered with shoes. Yes shoes…runners, hiking boots, kids’ shoes and flip-flops! Either attached to the trunk of the tree or hanging off the branches, there must be hundreds. Surprisingly, some actually look like they are in pretty good shape despite being covered with dirt from the gravel road! We saw another tree like this one on the road from Port Hardy to Cape Scott Park earlier this summer.

This “shoe” tree marks the start of the Mystic Trail. As we meandered along the trail towards the lake, we passed an old rustic moss-covered log cabin. We were surprised when we peaked inside to see three little beds with three teddy bears, just like the Goldilocks story. Further along the trail are a variety of unique sculptures.

We talked to some locals who said the enchanted forest trail was there when they were kids and came with their parents. While the history of the trail is a bit of a mystery, it is a fun place to meander around, and kids would love it.

We continued down to the beach and enjoyed the different types of rocks and a beautiful view.

Back in the car, a little further down the road (about 15 kilometres from Cascade Falls) we stopped at Cottonwood Beach. The campsite is 3 kilometres off the main road as it winds down to the lake. A good campground either as a destination or to keep in mind if you forget to book a reservation at Mabel Lake Park and find it full; or like us if you’re looking for another place to stop and explore. There are a real variety of campsites, some close to the water and some back in the trees.

After Cottonwood Beach we headed back to our campsite at the Provincial Park; others may choose to head north another 70 kilometres to Revelstoke.

Whether you are camping in the heat of the summer or the cool fall, keep in mind this park is a little higher up in the mountains, so temperatures tend to be a cooler. For us, it’s a great choice in any season!

For other campgrounds in the area or elsewhere in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #campinbc #explorebc

It’s always a great day to #campinbc.

Village of Radium Hot Springs, BC: A Great Place for a Fall Trip

With kids back to school, we decided to join the retirees and other seniors for some fall camping in the Kootenays. We started out from our home base in the Okanagan, headed south through Osoyoos to Rock Creek and stayed one night at Kettle River Provincial Park. We have camped there a lot but always in the heat of the summer, so it was nice to enjoy some cooler weather. From there, we headed east to Moyie Lake Provincial Park; located 20 Kilometres south of Cranbrook it had been years since we camped here and was nice to return. Both campsites had lots of space, and both were open until early October. Another welcome surprise was that since my husband had turned 65 this year and we were camping outside of the peak season; we were eligible for the seniors’ half price camping rate.

Radium was our next destination. We lived in Invermere when we were first married, and it is always nice to return to our old stomping grounds and see how things are changing. Radium still had the same welcoming feel, a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts young and old. Being that it was mid-September, we could sense that things were slowing down for the winter. We were immediately greeted by the bighorn sheep at the gas station as we pulled into town.

As far as RV accommodations go, we would recommend The Canyon RV Resort. We liked the flat treed sites with some right on Sinclair Creek, which can be viewed from the highway. From what I understand they close for the winter sometime in October, so check to make sure they are open if you are travelling later into the fall. We agreed with the great reviews we had read online and will definitely be back. For those travelling without an RV or planning to camp, there are also many cute motels as well as high-end hotels available in the village.

While in Radium we wanted to check out The Springs Course. It is one of two golf courses, the other called The Radium Course. The Springs is consistently rated as one of the best in BC. It is located between two high mountain ranges, the Purcells and the Rockies. Its panoramic views of the Columbia River kept us in awe as they did many years ago when golfing there.

Next on the list, hot springs!! Just east of the Village of Radium is the entrance to Kootenay National Park and Radium Hot Springs. The hot springs and surrounding lands have long been used by Indigenous peoples. Radium Hot Springs got its name when trace amounts of Radium were found in the water. Parks Canada has a good overview of its history on their website.

A soak in the hot springs was at the top of my list; needless to say, it was beautiful. Another benefit of travelling in the early fall was that there was plenty of room to park and not too many people in the pool.  It really has not changed much over the years. We used to love going to the pools in the winter when it was snowing, a real perk of living in the area. Another favourite memory of living in the area was going to Fairmont Hot Springs which is just about 30 minutes south. We used to soak in the hot springs after a day of skiing at the mountain just above them.

I have also heard that the Sinclair Canyon Trail network has some good trails with views of the creek, educational signs and rest areas with benches. We didn’t get a chance to do any of those this trip but saw one of the trail-heads just above the hot springs. It was hard to pass this one up, but we need a reason to come back!

After leaving Radium we ventured further into Kootenay National Park along scenic Highway 93. Many of the campgrounds were closed at that time of the year; they seem to have different fall closing dates, so good to check before arriving. We went for a great walk in Marble Canyon which is about 90 kilometres from Radium. The trail is short (about a kilometre), with neat rock formations as it winds its way along Tokumm Creek through the narrow gorge and across many bridges.

I can’t really describe how awe-inspiring and beautiful the mountain scenery is in Kootenay National Park, but it is definitely a great place to explore at all times of the year, including the fall.

For places to camp in this area and elsewhere in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtags #campinbc #explorebc.

Port Renfrew, British Columbia: Fall Camping, Old Growth Forests and Beautiful Beaches

Last fall we took a Vancouver Island camping trip north of Sooke to Port Renfrew. We started out in Victoria and traveled to Sooke along Highway 14. We have spent lots of time in Sooke with family and were excited to explore beyond to the Port Renfrew area, especially when most campers have packed away their gear for the season.

From Sooke our first stop was French Beach Provincial Park (about 20 kilometres from Sooke). It was late September, so no reservations were required. It was fairly quiet on the weekdays, but it filled up on the weekend. We definitely appreciated the extra blankets on our bed at night and extra layers around the fire. Some days we needed toques and gloves for beach walks and other days we were wearing shorts. Take home message – be prepared for all weather!!

After a few days at French Beach, we drove to Port Renfrew, another 50 kilometres along the same highway. The road was bumpy in spots with lots of corners to slow down for, but fully paved. We recommend stopping at the charming logging community of Jordan River which is well known for surfing. There is ocean-front camping (first come, first served) at Jordan River Regional Park with a picnic area, which is a great place to watch the surfers. Before leaving we stopped for coffee, snacks and wifi at the Cold Shoulder Cafe.

Between Jordan River and Port Renfrew there are many beaches to explore (all along the 47 kilometre Juan de Fuca Marine Trail); some of our favourite beaches are China Beach, Mystic Beach and Sombrio Beach. All are absolutely beautiful, and it is difficult to recommend just one!

We arrived at our destination for the next few nights, Port Renfrew. It is well known for being the trailhead for the Juan de Fuca Trail and the West Coast Trail, as well as, the beautiful, natural Botanical Beach. Check out Things To Do in Port Renfrew.

While in the Port Renfrew area, we stayed at Pacheedaht Campground. They have numerous ocean-front campsites and many set back from the water in the wooded area.

Over the next few days, we explored. First on our list was Botanical Beach, known for being one of the richest tidal pools on the west coast. We made sure that we checked the tide charts for the area before we went. We arrived an hour before low tide (it was 1.6 metres), which was good for beachcombing. We took the Botanical Beach Loop Trail which circles past Botanical Beach, as well as, Botany Bay. This 2.9 kilometre trail takes you from the parking lot down to the beach and follows along above the beach. The loop takes about 40 minutes, but was much longer since we stopped at all the beaches.

Next on the list was Avatar Grove. We picked up a Port Renfrew visitors guide which helped send us off in the right direction. It was a 15–20 minute drive and then both an upper and lower trail; both seemed to take about 20-30 minutes depending on how many photos you stop to take. The upper trail is an old creek bed with lots of fallen trees, rustic stairs and surrounded by old growth Douglas Firs and Red Cedars. At the end of the trail is the large Red Cedar known as Canada’s gnarliest tree with a burl 10 feet in diameter. Both trails are awe inspiring!

A little further up the road is a hike to the famous “Big Lonely Doug”, Canada’s second largest Douglas Fir and estimated to be about 1,000 years old! It has become a symbol for protecting old-growth forests. Much has been written about this mammoth tree; I enjoyed reading the history written by the Walrus; if you want to learn more, just do a quick google search. We have a second trip planned back to the area next spring, so we wanted to save that hike for our next visit.

Lastly, dinner at the local pub was a must to finish off our camping trip. The waterfront Renfrew Pub located on the pier at Snuggery Cove had a very comfortable friendly atmosphere with a mix of locals and tourists. We tried the fish and chips and pulled-pork tacos and then took a walk out on the pier, which was a nice way to end our visit to memorable Port Renfrew.

For places to camp in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtags #campinbc #explorebc.

Wonder and Awe – Yoho National Park in BC’s Kootenay Rockies

If you are looking for stunning steep mountains, spectacular waterfalls and turquoise glacial waters, Yoho National Park is the place to visit!

After travelling from the village of Radium through Kootenay National Park along scenic Highway 93, we ventured into a camping area we had not visited in the past, beautiful Yoho National Park.

From the Marble Canyon Trail in Kootenay National Park, we continued north on Highway 93 for 18 kilometres to the intersection of Highway 1 (also referred to as Castle Junction). Curious as I am, I had to find out why it is known as Castle Junction. It is named after Castle Mountain, so-called for its castle-like appearance which is a few kilometres away with a popular hiking trail. This area is in Banff National Park, so by the end of the day we had travelled through three national parks: Kootenay, Banff and Yoho. From Castle Junction, we travelled west along Highway 1 for a half hour until we entered Yoho National Park.

Our first stop was the Yoho National Park Visitors Centre to pick up a visitor’s guide and a park pass. The visitor centre is located at the entrance to the town of Field, less than 10 kilometres from the eastern park entrance. 

After getting our very-affordable pass, we visited the small town of Field, with a population of less than 200, and which is the only community in the park. Field was established in the 1880s as a settlement for the Canadian Pacific Railway (C.P.R.) workers and is home to various historic buildings from this era. There are also a couple of places to eat and a few shops. I loved wandering around the pottery shop, Velvet Antler Pottery & Gallery, the Siding Cafe where we picked up some supplies, and we made plans to come back for dinner at the very popular Truffle Pigs Bistro.

Nearby, we had a choice of two campgrounds: Monarch and Kicking Horse.  Both were located close to each other and off the same highway exit, which made it easier to check them both out. Monarch was smaller with 44 sites but located close to the highway, so we opted for Kicking Horse which was just up the road with 88 sites. Kicking Horse was a great campground, central to most of the day trips we made, it had a nice new shower house, and we found the campsite to be very quiet. Even though there were quite a few campers set up, it seemed deserted during the day because most people were off on day-trips.

Just up the road from our campsite was Takakkaw Falls; we planned this well as we checked in and left our trailer at the campsite and then drove to the falls. There are no long vehicles/trailers allowed on the road because of the switchbacks and there are warnings that vehicles over 23 feet need to reverse to get around the corners. Apparently, the day before, the road was closed as a longer bus got stuck on one of the switchbacks. The falls were a short 20–30-minute walk, busy with visitors, and absolutely beautiful! After the falls we followed the trail in the opposite direction towards the hike-in, backcountry campgrounds: Laughing Falls (6.5 kilometres) and Twin Falls (8.6 kilometres).

Another trip was to the learn more about the C.P.R. Spiral Tunnels. Just a short drive on the highway east from our campsite was the lookout. Built in the early 1900s, the tunnels are a pair of rail loops (inside the mountain!) designed to help trains navigate the steep incline which was more than twice the allowed grade.

Another short trip took us to the Natural Bridge, located on the road to Emerald Lake. It is a limestone rock formation created by the erosion of the stunning glacial water of the Kicking Horse River.

Our last visit in Yoho National Park was the iconic Emerald Lake, surrounded by beautiful turquoise, glacial water and the President Mountain range. We intentionally arrived by 9:00 am to beat the crowds. Keep in mind, it was September so earlier in the summer might be a better time. We easily found a parking spot but by the time we left, the cars were lined up over a kilometre down the road. We hiked around the lake (5.3 kilometres) which took about an hour; the first half (if heading left from the parking lot) was a wide-open trail alongside the lake; after reaching the end of the lake and crossing the bridge, the trail becomes less developed with lots of slippery spots and roots to climb over. But it is still an easy hike.

After the trail, we grabbed a coffee and snack and found a nice spot beside the lake to enjoy the magnificent view! We didn’t see any swimmers (swimming is not for the faint-of-heart, it is so cold even in the summer), but there were lots of people who had rented canoes. We were also excited to see a couple who had just got married and were having their wedding photos taken on the bridge.

To finish off our September camping trip, we stopped at Canyon Hotsprings before heading home to the Okanagan. We had a long leisurely dip in their natural hot spring pool. We timed this well because it was the last day they were open before closing for the season. They have two pools, with warm water piped in from a source 3 kilometres away. A great, relaxing way to finish up our late summer/early fall camping season. We are looking forward to our next trip!

For places to camp in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtags #campinbc #explorebc.

Kayaking the Nuchatlitz on BC’s West Coast

The west coast of Vancouver Island is a rugged and beautiful place. Windswept beaches, crystal-clear bays, and dramatic rock formations make the area a mecca for kayakers seeking a multi-day adventure.

Nuchatlitz Inlet is one such kayaking paradise. Located north of Nootka Island and approximately two thirds of the way up the west coast of Vancouver Island, Nuchatlitz Inlet is primarily accessed from either Zeballos or Tahsis. On our recent trip, we opted to take a water taxi out of Zeballos. Another way of accessing the Nuchatlitz area is on the MV Uchuck III, which provides passenger and freight service to remote areas along the BC coast.

For our trip we were dropped off by water taxi at Rosa Island. Rosa is nestled right in the middle of Nuchatlitz Provincial Park and serves as the primary drop off point for kayakers accessing the area via boat. When we were there, we were happy that we were being dropped off and then moving on to another camping location, as Rosa was extremely busy. This is variable, though, as we spoke to people later in our trip who told us they had Rosa all to themselves.

From Rosa we paddled approximately 14 kilometres our first day, weaving our way through Chuish and Wy-ash Islands, past Ensanada Islet, through the Colwood Rocks, around Belmont Point, and finally to Benson Point. Benson Point is a spectacular stretch of sandy beach that on a sunny day makes visitors feel as if they have been transported to the tropics! Commercial kayak guiding groups use the Benson Point area, and we were fortunate to have the entire area to ourselves.

On day two, we explored the Mary Basin area. Our paddle this day was approximately 10 kilometres and included a bear sighting, numerous sea otters, and lots of beautiful views. At the end of the Mary Basin, an extremely narrow opening leads to the Inner Basin. This area is only accessible when the tides are right, as the current flows so fast in and out of the narrow opening that paddlers can get trapped until the next tidal exchange. Unfortunately for us, the tide had just started rising when we were there which meant we could get into the Inner Basin, but we would have been stuck in the basin for many hours before we could get back out. Not wanting to spend that much time, we opted to save the Inner Basin for a future trip.

For our 22-kilometre paddle on day three, we left Benson point, crossed Nuchatlitz Inlet, then headed out around Ferrer Point in order to experience the extreme west coast of Vancouver Island. On the outside the wind is stronger, the swell is bigger, and kayaking is a whole lot more adventurous. Ferrer Point is on Nootka Island, and we had initially hoped to paddle a little bit down the outside of the island and visit Third Beach, which is a popular campsite for those hiking the Nootka Trail. However, given the surf conditions we decided to turn back and instead explore Louie Bay, which turned out to be one of my favourite places of the whole trip.

In December 1969, a Greek freighter wrecked on the rocks near Ferrer Point. The ship was dragged into Louie Bay and blown up in hopes of scrap metal salvage. As things sometimes happen, something clearly went awry and to this day rusting and abandoned remains of the ship remain in Louie Bay. At low tide it is possible to walk through them, and on a rising tide – like the one when we were there – it becomes possible to float through the wreckage. I find the human history of remote locations fascinating, so the Louie Bay shipwreck was a big hit for me.

On our fourth day we left Benson Point and headed into Nuchatlitz Marine Provincial Park. We spent two nights on Wy-ash Island, often referred to as “Island 44.” Wy-ash was a great place to end our trip, as we were able to walk a trail across and around the island, see a reassembled sea otter skeleton, and spend a couple of days exploring the protected waters of the provincial park. As our trip came to a close, we paddled back to Rosa Island where we were picked up by the water taxi and transported back to Zeballos.

Nuchatlitz is an excellent paddle destination as it offers opportunities for most levels of kayaking experience. From an intermediate commercially guided trip to a self-supported adventure full of swell and surf, Nuchatlitz Inlet offers it all and is an amazing location to enjoy a truly west coast experience.

For places to camp in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtags #campinbc #explorebc.

Published: August 1st, 2024