Wonder and Awe – Yoho National Park in BC’s Kootenay Rockies
If you are looking for stunning steep mountains, spectacular waterfalls and turquoise glacial waters, Yoho National Park is the place to visit!
After travelling from the village of Radium through Kootenay National Park along scenic Highway 93, we ventured into a camping area we had not visited in the past, beautiful Yoho National Park.
From the Marble Canyon Trail in Kootenay National Park, we continued north on Highway 93 for 18 kilometres to the intersection of Highway 1 (also referred to as Castle Junction). Curious as I am, I had to find out why it is known as Castle Junction. It is named after Castle Mountain, so-called for its castle-like appearance which is a few kilometres away with a popular hiking trail. This area is in Banff National Park, so by the end of the day we had travelled through three national parks: Kootenay, Banff and Yoho. From Castle Junction, we travelled west along Highway 1 for a half hour until we entered Yoho National Park.
Our first stop was the Yoho National Park Visitors Centre to pick up a visitor’s guide and a park pass. The visitor centre is located at the entrance to the town of Field, less than 10 kilometres from the eastern park entrance.
After getting our very-affordable pass, we visited the small town of Field, with a population of less than 200, and which is the only community in the park. Field was established in the 1880s as a settlement for the Canadian Pacific Railway (C.P.R.) workers and is home to various historic buildings from this era. There are also a couple of places to eat and a few shops. I loved wandering around the pottery shop, Velvet Antler Pottery & Gallery, the Siding Cafe where we picked up some supplies, and we made plans to come back for dinner at the very popular Truffle Pigs Bistro.
Nearby, we had a choice of two campgrounds: Monarch and Kicking Horse. Both were located close to each other and off the same highway exit, which made it easier to check them both out. Monarch was smaller with 44 sites but located close to the highway, so we opted for Kicking Horse which was just up the road with 88 sites. Kicking Horse was a great campground, central to most of the day trips we made, it had a nice new shower house, and we found the campsite to be very quiet. Even though there were quite a few campers set up, it seemed deserted during the day because most people were off on day-trips.
Just up the road from our campsite was Takakkaw Falls; we planned this well as we checked in and left our trailer at the campsite and then drove to the falls. There are no long vehicles/trailers allowed on the road because of the switchbacks and there are warnings that vehicles over 23 feet need to reverse to get around the corners. Apparently, the day before, the road was closed as a longer bus got stuck on one of the switchbacks. The falls were a short 20–30-minute walk, busy with visitors, and absolutely beautiful! After the falls we followed the trail in the opposite direction towards the hike-in, backcountry campgrounds: Laughing Falls (6.5 kilometres) and Twin Falls (8.6 kilometres).
Another trip was to the learn more about the C.P.R. Spiral Tunnels. Just a short drive on the highway east from our campsite was the lookout. Built in the early 1900s, the tunnels are a pair of rail loops (inside the mountain!) designed to help trains navigate the steep incline which was more than twice the allowed grade.
Another short trip took us to the Natural Bridge, located on the road to Emerald Lake. It is a limestone rock formation created by the erosion of the stunning glacial water of the Kicking Horse River.
Our last visit in Yoho National Park was the iconic Emerald Lake, surrounded by beautiful turquoise, glacial water and the President Mountain range. We intentionally arrived by 9:00 am to beat the crowds. Keep in mind, it was September so earlier in the summer might be a better time. We easily found a parking spot but by the time we left, the cars were lined up over a kilometre down the road. We hiked around the lake (5.3 kilometres) which took about an hour; the first half (if heading left from the parking lot) was a wide-open trail alongside the lake; after reaching the end of the lake and crossing the bridge, the trail becomes less developed with lots of slippery spots and roots to climb over. But it is still an easy hike.
After the trail, we grabbed a coffee and snack and found a nice spot beside the lake to enjoy the magnificent view! We didn’t see any swimmers (swimming is not for the faint-of-heart, it is so cold even in the summer), but there were lots of people who had rented canoes. We were also excited to see a couple who had just got married and were having their wedding photos taken on the bridge.
To finish off our September camping trip, we stopped at Canyon Hotsprings before heading home to the Okanagan. We had a long leisurely dip in their natural hot spring pool. We timed this well because it was the last day they were open before closing for the season. They have two pools, with warm water piped in from a source 3 kilometres away. A great, relaxing way to finish up our late summer/early fall camping season. We are looking forward to our next trip!
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Yoho National Park, BC – A Jewel in the Canadian Rockies
Emerald Lake, Yoho National Park
Alberta often gets the credit for the Canadian Rockies, but BC plays host to a spectacular Rocky Mountain parks of its own – Yoho National Park. This park can be visited as a trip of its own, or it can be part of a larger circle tour through the Canadian Rockies. Either way, spectacular mountain peaks, alpine flowers, and shimmering lakes await you in Yoho National Park.
Yoho is the slightly western counterpart of the better-known Banff National Park. Covering 1,310 square kilometres, the park makes up a portion of UNESCO’s Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks World Heritage Site. Yoho offers a bountiful range of both easily accessible and more challenging terrain, guaranteeing that you will find something to suit your interests no matter which direction you choose to explore.
Takakkaw Falls Campground, Yoho National Park
What To Do in Yoho National Park
Highlights include:
- Takakkaw Falls: A 254-metre waterfall with an easy walking trail that gets you close enough to the base to feel the spray. If you choose to stay at the Takakkaw Falls campground, the sound of the rushing water will sing you to sleep each night.
- Emerald Lake: An aptly named lake that provides stunning scenery and amazing opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, and stand-up paddleboarding. Hungry? Check out Cilantro on the Lake, the bistro-style dining option at the Emerald Lake Lodge offering great food and even greater views.
Hiking Lake O’Hara, Yoho National Park
- Natural Bridge: A short walk to see how the mighty Kicking Horse River has eroded a spectacular gorge.
- Lake O’Hara: Backcountry at it’s finest! Lake O’Hara is accessible only by reservation, as the area must be accessed by the Lake O’Hara shuttle bus. Both day trips and overnight excursions are available. Check at the Visitor Centre in Field as last-minute spots sometimes come available, but to guarantee your spot make your reservation well in advance.
- Burgess Shale: An ancient sea in the sky? Accessible only by guided hike, the Burgess Shale is known world-wide as one of the most significant fossil beds in the world.
Fossil Found at Walcott Quarry, Yoho National Park. Photo: Aaron Purdy
In the Area
While you are visiting Yoho National Park, consider taking a day-trip to Golden where you can walk across Canada’s longest freestanding timber frame pedestrian bridge, take a gondola ride to 7,700 feet at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort, and hit the links at the Golden Golf Club. There are many more things to do in and around Yoho National Park.
Closest Community
Field, located within Yoho National Park, is the closest place offering any sort of services. This vacation town has numerous restaurants and shops, but if you are looking to do any major resupplying you may need to consider going further afield – no pun intended! Golden is about half an hour west, while Lake Louise is half an hour east.
Natural Bridge, Yoho National Park
Where to Stay
Yoho has four first-come-first served “front country” campsites. The largest of these is Kicking Horse, which offers showers, flush toilets, and a sani-dump. For a more unique experience, consider staying at the walk-in Takakkaw Falls campground. Don’t let the campground’s walk-in name deter you – Parks Canada provides wheelbarrows to transport your belongings the short distance to the campground and bear boxes to store your food and other scented belongings.
Yoho National Park is one of my favourite places to visit. The combination of alpine scenery and easy accessibility makes it a great option for people of all levels of physical fitness and offers endless opportunities for exploration. Whether you are young or young at heart, Yoho has something up its sleeve to keep you entertained for a day, a week, or beyond.
For more campgrounds in and around British Columbia check out the Camping Map at Camping & RVing BC.
Check out more blogs in the National Parks & Historic Sites series:
A Primer to Canada’s National Parks in BC.
BC’s Gulf Islands National Park Reserve Offers Rich Opportunities for Exploring
BC’s National Historic Sites Offer a Glimpse into the Past – Here are 3 to Explore
Kootenay National Park, BC Offers Great Vistas, Hiking & History
Visit Mount Revelstoke National Park in August for its Stunning Vistas & Wildflowers
Yoho National Park, BC – A Jewel in the Canadian Rockies
Glacier National Park: A Special BC Destination
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve – A Great Place to Visit in the Off Season
Share your BC camping and travel photos using hashtag #campinbc
Published: April 13th, 2017
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