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Port Renfrew, British Columbia: Fall Camping, Old Growth Forests and Beautiful Beaches

Last fall we took a Vancouver Island camping trip north of Sooke to Port Renfrew. We started out in Victoria and traveled to Sooke along Highway 14. We have spent lots of time in Sooke with family and were excited to explore beyond to the Port Renfrew area, especially when most campers have packed away their gear for the season.

French Beach near Sooke | Glendora Scarfone

From Sooke our first stop was French Beach Provincial Park (about 20 kilometres from Sooke). It was late September, so no reservations were required. It was fairly quiet on the weekdays, but it filled up on the weekend. We definitely appreciated the extra blankets on our bed at night and extra layers around the fire. Some days we needed toques and gloves for beach walks and other days we were wearing shorts. Take home message – be prepared for all weather!!

Juan de Fuca Trail, Vancouver Island

After a few days at French Beach, we drove to Port Renfrew, another 50 kilometres along the same highway. The road was bumpy in spots with lots of corners to slow down for, but fully paved. We recommend stopping at the charming logging community of Jordan River which is well known for surfing. There is ocean-front camping (first come, first served) at Jordan River Regional Park with a picnic area, which is a great place to watch the surfers. Before leaving we stopped for coffee, snacks and wifi at the Cold Shoulder Cafe.

Between Jordan River and Port Renfrew there are many beaches to explore (all along the 47 kilometre Juan de Fuca Marine Trail); some of our favourite beaches are China Beach, Mystic Beach and Sombrio Beach. All are absolutely beautiful, and it is difficult to recommend just one!

Pacheedaht Campground, Port Renfrew | Carol Stathers

We arrived at our destination for the next few nights, Port Renfrew. It is well known for being the trailhead for the Juan de Fuca Trail and the West Coast Trail, as well as, the beautiful, natural Botanical Beach. Check out Things To Do in Port Renfrew.

While in the Port Renfrew area, we stayed at Pacheedaht Campground. They have numerous ocean-front campsites and many set back from the water in the wooded area.

Botanical Beach Trail, Port Renfrew | Carol Stathers

Over the next few days, we explored. First on our list was Botanical Beach, known for being one of the richest tidal pools on the west coast. We made sure that we checked the tide charts for the area before we went. We arrived an hour before low tide (it was 1.6 metres), which was good for beachcombing. We took the Botanical Beach Loop Trail which circles past Botanical Beach, as well as, Botany Bay. This 2.9 kilometre trail takes you from the parking lot down to the beach and follows along above the beach. The loop takes about 40 minutes, but was much longer since we stopped at all the beaches.

Botanical Beach, Port Renfrew Carol Stathers

Next on the list was Avatar Grove. We picked up a Port Renfrew visitors guide which helped send us off in the right direction. It was a 15–20 minute drive and then both an upper and lower trail; both seemed to take about 20-30 minutes depending on how many photos you stop to take. The upper trail is an old creek bed with lots of fallen trees, rustic stairs and surrounded by old growth Douglas Firs and Red Cedars. At the end of the trail is the large Red Cedar known as Canada’s gnarliest tree with a burl 10 feet in diameter. Both trails are awe inspiring!

Avatar Grove, Port Renfrew | Carol Stathers

A little further up the road is a hike to the famous “Big Lonely Doug”, Canada’s second largest Douglas Fir and estimated to be about 1,000 years old! It has become a symbol for protecting old-growth forests. Much has been written about this mammoth tree; I enjoyed reading the history written by the Walrus; if you want to learn more, just do a quick google search. We have a second trip planned back to the area next spring, so we wanted to save that hike for our next visit.

Lastly, dinner at the local pub was a must to finish off our camping trip. The waterfront Renfrew Pub located on the pier at Snuggery Cove had a very comfortable friendly atmosphere with a mix of locals and tourists. We tried the fish and chips and pulled-pork tacos and then took a walk out on the pier, which was a nice way to end our visit to memorable Port Renfrew.

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For places to camp in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

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Three Places Where British Columbia’s Cariboo Region Locals Like to Camp

Sometimes, the best places to explore just happen to be in your own backyard. Especially when you live in beautiful British Columbia!

Every summer, we connect with locals from the Cariboo Region as they set out on their annual camping trips with their families.

Fishing at Crater Lake, Cariboo
Fishing at Crater Lake in the Cariboo

Over the past few years, these local families have shared their Cariboo Region camping experiences with us—from the new places they’ve only just discovered to those family-favourites that they love to revisit. 

Here are three places where our local Cariboo Region friends like to camp.

Mahood Lake

Mahood Lake is a great camping destination in the southern Cariboo Region. You’ll know that you’re getting close when you start to see huge forests of cedar and fir trees. If you like fishing and swimming, this is the perfect lake to visit.

Our friends from Quesnel visited Mahood Lake a few years ago and set up camp at Wells Gray Provincial Park—located on the western end of Mahood Lake. They described the forest when they entered the park as though they had just stepped into a fairy tale.

Wells Gray Provincial Park Entrance
Arriving at Wells Gray Provincial Park

They found the campsite to be very clean and accessible—featuring great places for kids to bike around and a popular playground to meet new friends at.

Wells Gray Provincial Park Playground
Wells Gray Provincial Park Playground

They also found some great hikes to explore that were accessible right from the campground—Canim River Trail, Deception Falls Trail and Mahood Falls Trail.

Deception Falls, Cariboo
A View of Deception Falls

The closest trail was Canim River Trail—only 1 km away from their campground. Deception Falls Trail was a bit further at about 8 km away. They found both trails to be family-friendly and full of beautiful sights! They even were able to portage their kayaks down the Canim River Trail to the river.

Kayaking on Canim River
Kayaking on Canim River

The Mahood Falls Trail was only 5 km away from their campsite. Even riding their bikes, they found this trail to be a bit more challenging with its incline—but still safe for kids.

View from Mahood Falls Trail
View from Mahood Falls Trail

All that pedaling was definitely worth it when they reached the beautiful Canim Falls!

Canim Falls, Cariboo
Overlooking Canim Falls while on the Mahood Falls Trail

Green Lake

Our friends from 100 Mile House set out to camp at Green Lake for their camping trip last summer.

They stayed at the Sunset View campground at Green Lake Provincial Park. This has been one of their family’s favourite places to camp over the years and rightfully named Sunset View—as they said that they always see the most amazing sunsets there.

Sunset over Green Lake, Cariboo
Sunset over Green Lake

They found a nice camping spot—spacious and close to the lake and a playground.

This family loves to head out and explore when they camp. Their first day trip was to Chasm Creek Valley—a quick 30-minute drive from Green Lake. Their kids were fascinated by the ancient lava rock formations, created by glacial melt water erosion.

Chasm Canyon, Cariboo
Chasm Canyon

For their second day trip, they visited Crater Lake, BC for the very first time as a family. This place featured more stunning views and waterfalls. They even brought their fishing rods to see what they could catch!

One of the most interesting sights they came across was devastation from the 2017 wildfires—now covered with vibrant greenery as it continues to grow back.

Ghost Lake

Our same friends from Quesnel went out on a second summer camping trip that year—this time, exploring along the historical Gold Rush Trail.

They set up camp at Ghost Lake, nestled into Cariboo Mountains Provincial Park. They found a very scenic camping spot at the banks of the Matthew River—looking out on beautiful turquoise water and the vast Cariboo Mountains.

Kayaking on Ghost Lake, Cariboo
Kayaking on Ghost Lake

They couldn’t resist getting out on the water as soon as they set up camp. It was the perfect lake for afternoons filled with kayaking, paddle-boarding and cliff-jumping.

Our friends weren’t the only ones who found the lake so peaceful and inviting. They even saw a deer come out onto the banks of the river to take a drink. It’s always exciting to see wildlife on camping trips—and there sure is a lot to see in the Cariboo Region!

Ladies Creek Rec Site, Cariboo
A Peaceful End to the Day at Ladies Creek Recreation Site

After packing up and heading to nearby Likely, BC to check out a trail, they set up camp just an hour from Ghost Lake at Ladies Creek Recreation Site on Cariboo Lake—ending the day with a beach fire-cooked dinner and a sunset paddle.

You’re never short of finding new places to explore in the Cariboo Region!

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If the Cariboo interests you, check out our drive:
Following the BC Gold Rush Trail through the Cariboo & Beyond

For other campgrounds in this area or elsewhere in British Columbia go to the Camping Map

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtag #campinbc, #BCNice, #explorebc

Published: November 5th, 2020

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