Kayaking the Nuchatlitz on BC’s West Coast

The west coast of Vancouver Island is a rugged and beautiful place. Windswept beaches, crystal-clear bays, and dramatic rock formations make the area a mecca for kayakers seeking a multi-day adventure.

Nuchatlitz Inlet is one such kayaking paradise. Located north of Nootka Island and approximately two thirds of the way up the west coast of Vancouver Island, Nuchatlitz Inlet is primarily accessed from either Zeballos or Tahsis. On our recent trip, we opted to take a water taxi out of Zeballos. Another way of accessing the Nuchatlitz area is on the MV Uchuck III, which provides passenger and freight service to remote areas along the BC coast.

For our trip we were dropped off by water taxi at Rosa Island. Rosa is nestled right in the middle of Nuchatlitz Provincial Park and serves as the primary drop off point for kayakers accessing the area via boat. When we were there, we were happy that we were being dropped off and then moving on to another camping location, as Rosa was extremely busy. This is variable, though, as we spoke to people later in our trip who told us they had Rosa all to themselves.

From Rosa we paddled approximately 14 kilometres our first day, weaving our way through Chuish and Wy-ash Islands, past Ensanada Islet, through the Colwood Rocks, around Belmont Point, and finally to Benson Point. Benson Point is a spectacular stretch of sandy beach that on a sunny day makes visitors feel as if they have been transported to the tropics! Commercial kayak guiding groups use the Benson Point area, and we were fortunate to have the entire area to ourselves.

On day two, we explored the Mary Basin area. Our paddle this day was approximately 10 kilometres and included a bear sighting, numerous sea otters, and lots of beautiful views. At the end of the Mary Basin, an extremely narrow opening leads to the Inner Basin. This area is only accessible when the tides are right, as the current flows so fast in and out of the narrow opening that paddlers can get trapped until the next tidal exchange. Unfortunately for us, the tide had just started rising when we were there which meant we could get into the Inner Basin, but we would have been stuck in the basin for many hours before we could get back out. Not wanting to spend that much time, we opted to save the Inner Basin for a future trip.

For our 22-kilometre paddle on day three, we left Benson point, crossed Nuchatlitz Inlet, then headed out around Ferrer Point in order to experience the extreme west coast of Vancouver Island. On the outside the wind is stronger, the swell is bigger, and kayaking is a whole lot more adventurous. Ferrer Point is on Nootka Island, and we had initially hoped to paddle a little bit down the outside of the island and visit Third Beach, which is a popular campsite for those hiking the Nootka Trail. However, given the surf conditions we decided to turn back and instead explore Louie Bay, which turned out to be one of my favourite places of the whole trip.

In December 1969, a Greek freighter wrecked on the rocks near Ferrer Point. The ship was dragged into Louie Bay and blown up in hopes of scrap metal salvage. As things sometimes happen, something clearly went awry and to this day rusting and abandoned remains of the ship remain in Louie Bay. At low tide it is possible to walk through them, and on a rising tide – like the one when we were there – it becomes possible to float through the wreckage. I find the human history of remote locations fascinating, so the Louie Bay shipwreck was a big hit for me.

On our fourth day we left Benson Point and headed into Nuchatlitz Marine Provincial Park. We spent two nights on Wy-ash Island, often referred to as “Island 44.” Wy-ash was a great place to end our trip, as we were able to walk a trail across and around the island, see a reassembled sea otter skeleton, and spend a couple of days exploring the protected waters of the provincial park. As our trip came to a close, we paddled back to Rosa Island where we were picked up by the water taxi and transported back to Zeballos.

Nuchatlitz is an excellent paddle destination as it offers opportunities for most levels of kayaking experience. From an intermediate commercially guided trip to a self-supported adventure full of swell and surf, Nuchatlitz Inlet offers it all and is an amazing location to enjoy a truly west coast experience.

For places to camp in British Columbia go to the Camping Map.

Share your BC travel and camping photos using hashtags #campinbc #explorebc.

Published: August 1st, 2024